PICK of the RACK: Macchia Wines | “Dubious” | Petite Sirah | California | 2013 | $25 | 93 Points


Macchia Wines, a Lodi, California, producer specializing in Zinfandel, several Italian varieties, and select other red varietal wines, has released its much anticipated (by NWR, at least) 2013 vintage offerings, including this “Dubious” Petite Sirah. We had reason to look forward to Macchia’s 2013s, as we were particularly impressed by the winery’s 2012 reds and expected more good things to come from winemaker Tim Holdener, who along with wife Lani established Macchia (which in Italian means “the spot”) in 2001. (We rated the winery’s 2012 “Bodacious” Petite Sirah and “Amorous” Sangiovese at 91 points each — revisit our review at the link.) The 2013 Dubious is a fervent expression of Petite Sirah — unapologetically bold — with aromas of ripe red and black fruit, cherry cola, and toasted coconut that all but leap from the glass; followed by fleshy flavors of candied black cherry, dried red fruit, and butterscotch — all accented by savory notions of bitters, clove, and subtly spicy oak. It is powerful yet balanced — with gripping tannins and fresh acidity — though very young and a bit taut at the moment. It promises to relax and show best in a year or two, but is pleasantly approachable now after an hour’s decant. Serve it with medium-to-sharp cheeses, charcuterie, barbecue, tomato-based dishes, and other hearty and spicy fare.

“Macchia’s 2013 ‘Dubious’ is stunningly good for the price.”

Availability: Macchia crafts Petite Sirah in fairly small lots, and national distribution is limited. We found the 2013 “Dubious” at our local Total Wine store, and it is available at many Total Wine locations nationwide. Visit them virtually at www.totalwine.com for availability in your area. For more information on Macchia Wines, visit them virtually at www.macchiawines.com or in person at the winery in Acampo, California, just north of Lodi and roughly 30 miles southeast of Sacramento.

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